8 Point Granny Round Ripple Pattern
By Julee A. Reeves
Materials:
Approx. 40 ozs worsted weight yarn
I used “H” but you can use any size hook
Tapestry Needle
Gauge: Not important in this pattern
Special Stitches:
Sc next 2 Sts Together: Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Shell: (3 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in specified Sp.
Important Abbreviations to know:
Beg: Beginning
Sc: Single Crochet
Sp: Space
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double Crochet
Sl St: Slip Stitch
Pattern Note: Some rnds have pictures to go with. These pictures will help explain what I mean when I refer to the Valleys and Hills that make this Ripple afghan. They can be found on the last few pages of this pattern.
Ch3, Join with Sl St in first Ch to make circle.
Rnd 1: Ch3, Dc in circle, (Ch2, 3 Dc in circle) 3times, Ch2, Dc in circle.
Sl St in top of Beg Ch3 and in next Dc and Ch2 Sp. (12 Dc, 4 Ch2 Sps)
Rnd 2: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, (Ch1, Shell in next
Ch2 Sp) 3 times, Ch1, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3 and in next 2 Dc and Ch2 Sp.
(24 Dc, 4 Ch2 Sps, 4 Ch1 Sps)
Rnd 3: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, Ch1, Shell in next
Ch1 Sp, (Ch1, Shell in next Ch2 Sp, Ch1, Shell in next Ch1 Sp) 3 times, Ch1,
Sl St in top of Beg Ch3 and in next 2 Dc and Ch2 Sp.
(48 Dc, 8 Ch1 Sps, 8 Ch2 Sps)
Rnd 4: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, (Ch1, Sc in next Ch1
Sp, Ch1, Shell in next Ch2 Sp) 7 times, Ch1, Sc in next Ch1 Sp, Ch1, Sl St in
top of Beg Ch3 and in next 2 Dc and Ch2 Sp.
(48 Dc, 16 Ch1 Sps, 8 Ch2 Sps)
Rnd 5: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, Ch1, Dc in next Sc,
(Ch1, Shell in next Ch2 Sp, Ch1, Dc in next Sc) 7 times, Ch1, Sl St in top of
Beg Ch3 and in next 2 Dc and Ch2 Sp. (56 Dc, 16 Ch1 Sps, 8 Ch2 Sps)
Rnd 6: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, (Ch1, 3 Dc in next
Ch1 Sp) 2 times, (Ch1, Shell in next Ch2, {Ch1, 3 Dc in next Ch1 Sp} 2
times, Ch1, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3 and in next 2 Dc and Ch2 Sp.
(96 Dc, 24 Ch1 Sps, 8 Ch2 Sps)
Rnd 7: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, *(Ch1, 3 Dc) in each
Ch1 Sp to Valley Ch1 Sp, Ch1, Sc in next Ch1 Sp, Ch1, (3 Dc, Ch1) in each
Ch1 Sp across to Hill Ch2 Sp, Shell in Ch2 Sp*, Repeat from * to * 7 times,
(Ch1, 3 Dc) in each Ch1 Sp to Valley Ch1 Sp, Ch1, Sc in next Ch1 Sp, Ch1,
(3 Dc, Ch1) in each Ch1 Sp across to Beg of Rnd, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3
and in next 2DC and Ch2 Sp. (Number of Stitches will vary as your work
gets bigger).
Rnd 8: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3 Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, *(Ch1, 3 Dc) in each
Ch1 Sp across to Ch1 Sp before Valley Sc, Ch1, Dc in next Sc, Ch1, Skip
next Ch1 Sp, (3 Dc, Ch1) in each Ch1 Sp across to Hill Ch2 Sp, Shell in Ch2
Sp*, Repeat from * to * 7 times, (Ch1, 3 Dc) in each Ch1 Sp across to Ch1
Sp before Valley Sc, Ch1, Dc in next Sc, Ch1, Skip next Ch1 Sp, (3 Dc, Ch1)
in each Ch1 Sp across to Beg of Rnd, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3, and in next
Ch2 sp and Ch2 Sp.
Rnd 9: Ch3, (2 Dc, Ch2, 3Dc) in same Ch2 Sp as Sl St, *(Ch1, 3 Dc) in each
Ch1 Sp across to Hill Ch2 Sp, Ch1, Shell in Ch2 Sp*, Repeat from * to * 7
times, Ch1, (3 Dc, Ch1) in each Ch1 Sp across to Beg of rnd, Sl St in top of
Beg Ch3, and in next 2 Dc and Ch2 Sp.
Rnds 10-?: Repeat Rnds 7-9 till a few inches short of desired size then repeat
Rnd 8.
Edging Rnds:
Rnd 1 of Edging: (work all stitches in BL unless told to do other wise) Ch1,
Sc in BL of same St as Sl St, and in each Sc to Ch2 Sp, Sc in next Ch, Ch2,
Sc in next Ch, *Sc in each St across to Ch1 Sp before Valley Sc, Skip next
(Ch1, Sc, Ch1), Sc in each Sc to Ch2 Sp, Sc in next Ch, Ch2, Sc in next Ch*
7 times, Sc in each St across to Ch1 Sp before Valley Sc, Skip next (Ch1, Sc,
Ch1), Sc in each Sc to Beg of Rnd, Sl St in top of first Sc.
Rnd 2 of Edging: (All stitches are worked in BOTH loops now) Ch1, Sc in
same St as Sl St and in each Sc to Ch2 Sp, (Sc, Ch2, Sc) in Ch2 Sp, *Sc in
each Sc to St before Valley, Sc next 2 Sc together, Sc in each St to Ch2 Sp,
(Sc, Ch2, Sc) in Ch2 Sp*, Repeat from * to * 7 times, Sc in each Sc to St
before Valley, Sc next 2 Sc together, Sc in each St to Beg of Rnd, Sl St in top
of first Sc. Fasten Off leaving at least 6 inches of yarn for weaving in ends.
Round 7 Illustration
Round 8 Illustration
Round 8 Completed Illustration
Round 9 Completed Illustration
Round 2 of Edging Illustration
Close Up of 2 Sc Together and Edging Completed Illustration
Close up of Center of Work
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Free Pattern- Cable Wrist Warmer Pattern
This pattern was previously offered for sale in my Etsy shop but every once in a while I like to take an older pattern and offer it up for free as a thanks!!!!
Hope ya'll enjoy it!!
Julee
Cabled Wrist Warmer
Size: With “F” crochet hook- 7 inches around X 7 ½ inches long
With “G” crochet hook- 7 ½ inches around X 8 inches long
Level of Difficulty: Advanced Beginner
Materials:
Approx 4 ounces of Caron Simply Soft or comparable yarn
G/6-4.25 (For smaller warmer use size “F” crochet hook)
Tapestry Needle for weaving in yarns
Yarn bobbin (optional- for 80 inches of yarn measured off at beginning of wrist warmer)
Gauge:
With “F” crochet hook: 4 ½ HDC= 1 inch, 3 ½ rows = 1 inch
With “G” crochet hook: 4 HDC = 1 inch, 3 rows = 1 inch
Stitches Used:HDC, SL ST, SC.
Special Stitches Used:
Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC): Yarn over, insert hook behind post of stitch ( insert hook from front to back of stitch), Yarn over, pull through, Yarn over, (pull through 2 loops) 2X’s. That will complete the FPDC.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC): Yarn over, insert hook behind post of stitch ( insert hook from back to front of stitch), Yarn over, pull through, Yarn over, (pull through 2 loops) 2X’s. That will complete the BPDC.
Front Post Treble Crochet (FPTC): Yarn over 2X’s, insert hook behind post of stitch, ( insert hook from front to back of stitch), Yarn over, pull through, Yarn over, (pull through 2 loops) 3X’s. That will complete the FPTC.
Note: For beginning of each wrist warmer measure off 80 inches of yarn and bundle up but do not cut. The 80 inches of yarn you just measured off will be used to sc around edge of wrist warmer after sewing
Left Hand
Chain 31 Loosely (with tail still connected to ball of yarn, not the 80 inches you have wound off)
Row 1: HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Ch1, turn. (30 HDC)
Row2: HDC in next 10 HDC, FPDC around next 2 HDC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 4 HDC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 2 HDC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (22 HDC, 8 FPDC)
Row 3: HDC in next 10 HDC, BPDC around next 2 HDC, HDC in next st, BPDC around next 4 HDC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (22 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 4: HDC in next 10 HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next st, skip next 2 DC, FPTC around next 2 DC, FPTC around first skipped DC, and next skipped DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC in next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (22 HDC, 4 FPDC, 4 FPTC)
Row 5: HDC in next 10 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 TC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC in next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (22 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 6: HDC in next 10 HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 4 DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (22 HDC, 8 FPDC)
Row 7: HDC in next 10 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. (22 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 8-11: Repeat rows 4-7 ONE time
Row 12: Repeat row 4.
Row 13: HDC in next 10 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 TC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in each of next 2 HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC. Ch1, turn. The increases in row’s 13-16 are for thumbhole.(24 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 14: HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 2 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 4 DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 2 HDC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (26 HDC, 8 FPDC)
Row 15: HDC in next 10 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC. Ch1, turn. (28 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 16: HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 6 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC, FPDC in next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, skip next 2 DC, FPTC around next 2 DC, FPTC around 1st skipped st, and next skipped st, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (30 HDC, 4 FPDC, 4 FPTC)
Row 17: HDC in next 10 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 TC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC in next 2 DC, HDC in next 5 HDC, skip next 8 HDC, HDC in next 5 HDC. Ch1, turn. Thumb hole just made. (22 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 18-19: Repeat row 6 and 7.
Row 20-23: Repeat rows 4-7.
Edging: Sl St in each HDC and DC across. Ch1, Turn, Sl St in HDC and DC across again. You will still be able to see the tops of the HDC’s and DC’s, You will Sl St in those again. Fasten Off leaving about 12 inches of yarn to sew wrist warmer together with. Matching ends of rows up carefully, Sew both ends of work up.
Edging on Opposite End of Wrist Warmer: After the wrist warmer has been sewed up, Take the 80 inches of yarn that is still connected to first row of Wrist Warmer, and bring up a loop, Ch1 and sc in other side of Chain
Right Hand
Rows 1-12: Repeat same as left hand.
Row 13: HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in each of next 2 HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 TC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. The increases in row’s 13-16 are for thumbhole. (24 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 14:HDC in next 10 HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 4 DC, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 2 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC. Ch1, turn. (26 HDC, 8 FPDC)
Row 15:HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. (28 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 16:HDC in next 10 HDC, FPDC in next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, skip next 2 DC, FPTC around next 2 DC, FPTC around 1st skipped st, and next skipped st, HDC in next HDC, FPDC around next 2 DC,HDC in next 4 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 6 HDC, 2 HDC in next HDC, HDC in next 4 HDC. Ch1, turn.(30 HDC, 4 FPDC, 4 FPTC)
Row 17:HDC in next 5 HDC, skip next 8 HDC, HDC in next 5 HDC, BPDC around next 2 DC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC around next 4 TC, HDC in next HDC, BPDC in next 2 DC,HDC in next 10 HDC. Ch1, turn. Thumb hole just made. (22 HDC, 8 BPDC)
Row 18-19: Repeat row 6 and 7.
Row 20-23: Repeat rows 4-7. Edging: Same as for left warmer
Copy Right Julee A. Reeves 2008
This pattern is to be used for personal use only. You may not sell the pattern. If you are interested in selling the finished product please pm me asking for permission to sell the finished item. Thanks!! :-D Julee
Thursday, February 4, 2010
*FREE*Jacobs Ladder Round Ripple Afghan Pattern *FREE*
This pattern has not been tested. If you find any errors please leave a comment. If anything confuses you please leave a comment and I'll do my best to help. I tried my hardest to make this pattern understandable but today is one of those days where my brain is just fighting me all the way. Lol Oh well.
I wrote this pattern but the design was made possible thanks to Pam (alostlady2) on wwww.crochetville.org. It was her brilliance that combined the two. So, THANK YOU PAM!!!! :-D (It won't be exactly like hers cause I didn't get a close up of the afghan but I know how the Jacobs Ladder pattern works so I used my base knowledge of that design and the RR design and went from there.
Jacobs Ladder Round Ripple Afghan Pattern
Materials:
You can use any Hook and Any yarn you want.
Double Crochet Finishing Technique Stitch *DcFTS* (any better ideas for a name? Lol)-(yarn over, insert hook in top of next Dc, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, place hook through loop made by the Ch6, yarn over, pull through Ch6 loop, yarn over, insert hook in top of next Dc, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook).
Ch4,
Rnd 1: Make 15 Dc in 4th Ch from hook, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3. (16 Dc)
Rnd 2: Ch3, (Dc, Ch2, 2 Dc) in same st as sl st, *Ch 6, Skip next Dc, Shell (2 Dc, Ch2, 2 Dc) in next Dc. Repeat from * to * around. Skip next Dc, Sl St in top of Beg Ch 3 and in next Dc. (8-Shells, 8-Ch6 Sps)
Rnd 3: Ch3, Shell in next Ch2 Sp, *Dc in Dc, Skip next Dc, Ch 6, Skip next Dc, Dc in next Dc, Shell in next Ch2 Sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Dc in next Dc, Skip next Dc, Ch6, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3 and in next Dc. (8- Shells, 16- Dc, 8- Ch6 Sps)
Rnd 4-?: Ch3, Dc in next Dc, Shell in next Ch2 Sp, *Dc in next 2 Dc, Skip next Dc, Ch6, Skip next Dc, Dc in next 2 Dc, Shell in next Ch2 Sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Dc in next 2 Dc, Skip next Dc, Ch6, Sl St in top of Beg Ch3 and in next Dc. (8 Shells, 32- Dc, 8- Ch6 Sps)
Repeat rnd 4 adding 1 more Dc to each side of Shell until you reach your desired blanket size.
Before you work Finishing Rnd: Twist the first 6 chains and pull the 6 chains after that through (do not twist the second or any other chain after the first one). It will look like the top of a crocheted chain. Repeat that between all 8 hills.
Note: Your very last DcFTS will be worked just like every other DcFTS except you will work the very last set of instructions for that stitch in the top of the Sl St. I really hope that doesn’t confuse ya’ll to much.
Finishing Rnd: Ch3, *Dc in each Dc to Ch2 Sp, Shell in Ch2 Sp, Dc in each Dc to the last Dc (before the Ch6 sp), DcFTS over next Dc, Ch6 loop and Dc*. Repeat from * to * around. Sl St in top of Beg Ch3.
I didn’t make any more rnds after this but if you wanted to you could continue on for a few more rnds in which ever way you like.